Saturday, 2 July 2011

Tricks of the Trade No. 1: In Praise of the Pastry Knife

Having entered the restaurant kitchen relatively late in life, my perspective is a little different from one who has led their whole professional and home cooking lives in tandem. Ten years as a keen (read obsessive and fairly geeky) home cook, reading, experimenting, watching TV, buying gadgets and playing around in my kitchen taught me a lot and left me well equipped (in some ways) for life in the cheffing world. It has been really interesting though, over the past couple of years to learn various tricks and tools that are well known ‘on the inside’ but a revelation to my home cooking self.

Deciding what equipment to buy in the early stages of my career was always going to be a key decision. Most chefs have big bags or boxes full of kit mostly centered around knives designed do various different jobs collected over the lifetime of their career when needed or available.
Knives are expensive.
There was never going to be any way that I could afford a full set straight away, so where to start?

There is one knife that pretty much every chef I have met owns. Pretty much no home cook I know has one. I bought one within days of starting out and have since used mine to chop stock veg, finely dice shallots, cut steaks, joint chicken, make sandwiches, carve roasts, slice tomatoes, dice pancetta, prep fish and countless other tasks.*

It is the Pastry Knife.

I have not used it to cut pastry.

Yet.

It is also cheap.

It is a little unwieldy the first time you use it. They are quite large and it seems strange initially to be using a serrated blade. It is, though, as sharp as hell and the curve to the blade makes it easy to get the rocking motion required for quick, smooth chopping. Serrations mean it doesn’t slip on smooth surfaces but surprisingly cuts cleanly. When eventually it gets ground down through use and sharpening (through home use we’re probably talking decades) then it still works well as a straight edged carver and it’s only about £20 to get a replacement.

Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against expensive knives. In fact I would really like some expensive knives. If anyone reading this feels an urge to buy me gifts then here would be a good place to start. Actually just chuck me a few thousand pounds; I shouldn’t have too much trouble spending it.

Most people though don’t have endless bundles of cash to spend on equipment but, even if I did, then the Pastry Knife would still be in my kit box. It seems unbelievable to me that every home doesn’t own one (mine certainly does now) but for some reason it remains the preserve of the professional, little known outside the stainless steel and striplight world and was a revelation to me that I would like to share with you.



Amazon has a fewone here if I have managed to convince you.

*I have also cut myself with it a few times  ;o)

Wednesday, 29 June 2011

Blog, blog, blogging

Blog, blog, blogging we have been talking for a very long time about starting this blog and now it is time to engage our culinary brains and put fingers to the keyboard to share and impart some of this knowledge (interesting or not) to anyone who is willing to read our humble blog !

We share a passion for all things culinary and foodie whether it be ingredients, dishes, stories or just the randomness of our life within food and we are lucky enough to be able to translate all of this to our work.

One of us has been a professional chef for many years and has been lucky enough to travel around the world (at least a couple of times) to ply our trade in several different countries, picking up invaluable food knowledge and stories, I cannot always promised they will be interesting but I hope to share what I can

The other part of this dynamic duo has been an avid foodie and curious cook for many years but has only just recently taken the plunge and completely changed career paths (and salaries) only to find that his destiny lay within the professional kitchen. He turned up one day at the back door of a local hotel where I happened to be the executive chef and asked to be given a chance (I felt sorry for the little urchin) and he has never looked back he even followed me to another hotel - what a glutton for punishment.......

We hope this blog will give you an interesting insight into our little foodie world, it could be dishes we are developing at work, ingredients that are in season, random food related issues that are important to us and the food that we cook a home and share with our families. I am sure at some point that my two boys, Giles and Sebastian, will make an appearance as they seem to enjoy eating the spoils and maybe even a couple of friendly chickens along the way........

Friday, 10 June 2011

Some fresh Wild Seabass


Seabass is a fantastic ingredient at any time but we were lucky enough recently to get some ultra fresh wild fish in the restaurant. It’s a shame with anything this good to do too much to it and indeed this recipe keeps things fairly simple, complementing the fish and letting it sing as the star of the dish.

                Not only delicious, Seabass also rates well in terms of sustainability. Fish caught wild locally to us here in the UK rates as a ‘2’ (“still a good choice”) on the Marine Conservation Society’s scale of 1-5. The MCS website is well worth checking out at www.fishonline.org. Here you can search on pretty much any fish and get a relatively simple run down on the pros and cons from a sustainability perspective. From there you can dig deeper, really get underneath the issue and gain an understanding of the many and complex issues surrounding the sustainability of our fish stocks.

                While you are on the subject, why not head over to www.fishfight.net for a chance to make a difference above and beyond your shopping choices. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has certainly brought a lot of publicity to the subject through his TV programmes and the ‘fight’ continues through this site and his visits to supermarkets, fishermen and the European Parliament.

Seabass with Crispy Potato, Bacon and Fennel Cress Salad



Seabass
Pancetta
New potatoes
Samphire
Nori dried seaweed
Fennel Cress
Olive oil

1.       Make a seaweed dressing by shredding the nori sheets and putting them into a sieve, pour boiling water over them and through the sieve. Put the cooked, wet sheets into a blender and blend with enough olive oil to give a pourable consistency.
2.       Steam the potatoes until cooking but still firm, slice lengthways to give approx two 1cm thick slices per potato.
3.       Dice the pancetta to give 1cm cubes, place in a pan of cold water and bring to the boil. Once boiling, drain the pancetta, spread on a baking sheet and cook for 15 minutes in a pre-heated oven at 160C
4.       Pin bone and portion the Seabass, making a couple of slashes in the skin.

To serve:
1.       In a hot pan, fry the potato slices in some clarified butter until crisp and browned, add the pancetta and toss to coat.
2.       Season and oil the fish before pan frying.
3.       Add the samphire to the bacon and potato mix and toss together until just wilted. Season the mix if required.
4.       Serve in a warm bowl, placing the fish on top of the mix, surrounded by the fennel cress with a drizzle of the seaweed dressing.

Saturday, 28 May 2011

First Barbecue of the Year

After having lived in rented places for the past 15 odd years we bought our first house last year and the opportunity to put our own stamp on our home means that I have been slightly DIY crazy recently. I have been working on various projects that I have always wanted to have a crack at but was never able to. One of these is the building of a brick barbecue.

Put in context, I am pretty much entirely useless at anything remotely practical and had never laid a brick in my life. No problems though, the internet has the answer to everything! I read through various instructions until I thought I could have a reasonable stab.

I have learnt many things from this building project, chief amongst which is that I really, really, really hate bricklaying! Most projects that I have tried in the past have had some redeeming feature but I came out of the three days hard, boring, hot and sweaty labour with my back, legs and arms aching for days afterwards. I would love to say that I have been left with a masterpiece in masonry but in truth what I have is wonky, full of ‘character’ and reminiscent of the architecture of ancient Rome (took more than a day to build, is basically a ruin and I fully intend to fiddle while it burns. Sausages that is).












Having put all the work in now it seems only appropriate to get as much use out of it as possible and so a midweek celebration in the form of an impromptu outdoor dinner is the only way to go.



Barbecue Ribs & Marinated Chicken

Bit of a crazy, mis-match of a meal this but then that’s what barbecues are supposed to be like isn’t it? The barbecue sauce used on the ribs is pretty much generic and will work on whatever meat you want it to (or veg I guess but if you’re only interested in cooking veg on the Barbie then you may be missing the point). Serve with various salads, bread, cold beer, wine and whatever takes your fancy...



Braised Ribs

1x Rack of pork ribs
Chicken Stock
Mirepoix (Onion, carrot, celery, leek etc chopped up)

Put the lot in a dish big and deep enough to enable you to cover the ribs with the stock. Cover with foil and put into a 150C oven for 2 ½ to 3 hours.

Barbecue Sauce

4 tbsp tomato ketchup
330ml (ie. a can) Cola
1 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp Chinese 5 spice
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 cloves garlic, chopped
Thumb size piece ginger, chopped
1 tbsp soy sauce

Put all into a pan and reduce by about a ½

Barbecue Ribs

As the braised ribs are cooling, paint them with the barbecue sauce a few times over. Put them onto a hot barbecue grill, continue painting with warm sauce until suitably caramelised, sticky and ready to eat.

Marinated Chicken

1 whole chicken
½ bunch thyme
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
½ glass white wine
Black pepper

Split the chicken into 10 pieces (2x thighs, legs, wings and 4x ½ breast pieces).Put all ingredients into a vac-pac bag and seal. Leave for an hour or so and then put into a pan of not quite simmering water for 30-40 mins. This will work perfectly well marinated traditionally for longer and then poaching or steaming the chicken or using a well sealed freezer bag in a pan of water. When cooked remove the chicken and chill.

Later on season and finish the chicken pieces on a hot barbecue until the skin is crispy and all pieces suitably brown.

Herb Bulgur Wheat

250g Bulgur Wheat
1x bunch flat leaf parsley
1x bunch coriander
Extra virgin olive oil

Cover the bulgur wheat in boiling water - just over twice as much, allow to absorb until cooked, sieve off any excess. While it’s cooking blitz the herbs with the oil, mix with the bulgur wheat while still warm and season to taste.

- Alan